New York City dermatologist Dr. Amy Wechsler answers three commonly asked skincare questions.
Q: Between a cleanser, moisturizer, night cream, and eye cream, where does it make sense to spend the big bucks?
Amy Wechsler: You definitely don’t have to spend big bucks to get quality skincare! You can find lots of great options for cleansers and moisturizers at the drugstore, but if you are going to splurge on one product, consider buying a pricier antioxidant serum. A good serum requires a high concentration of antioxidants — highly effective anti-agers that boost the price — so I tell my patients this is one product that’s worth the extra bucks.
Q: Do I need to change my skincare routine seasonally?
AW: You don’t need to change it completely, just make a few minor tweaks. For example, in winter you may need to moisturize more because dry air, central heating, and wind can dry out or chap your skin. In summer, add a toner with salicylic acid to remove the layer of dead skin cells on the surface that hold onto oil; it will prevent shine, make you look refreshed, and provide a natural glow.
Look for one with no more than 0.5 percent salicylic acid to avoid over-drying your skin.
Q: Do I need to exfoliate? If so, how often and with what?
AW: Yes, but the answer really depends on your skin type and age. Exfoliation is something you want to start in your teens, and for sure by your twenties and thirties. By the time you reach your thirties, your skin begins to thin and becomes more vulnerable to the environment. At the same time, the natural enzymes in your skin begin to remove dead skin cells less efficiently, so they hang on and prevent your skin from reflecting light. As a result, you look ashy. Start by using an exfoliating cleanser once or twice weekly. Look for ingredients like sugar, oatmeal, or small synthetic beads (all of which are found in common exfoliating products). Or, if your skin is particularly dull, flaky, or red, try a cleanser with salicylic acid, which is less irritating than other chemical exfoliators.
Q: What's the best cream for wrinkles around the eyes?
AW: Dry skin accentuates fine lines and wrinkles, so look for an eye cream with hydrating ingredients like glycerin, shea butter, and natural oil (for example, sunflower or almond). Avoid products with potent anti-agers like AHAs or glycolic acid; they can irritate thin, delicate eye-area skin. Instead, pick a formula with an antioxidant like green tea, which is gentle but has been proven to help prevent signs of aging. And use your eye product at night: You want to slather it on, and if you do that during the day, it may look thick or greasy and interfere with your makeup. Our Picks: Dr. LeWinn by Kinerase Under Eye Recovery ($25, Walgreens); Kinerase C8 Peptide Under Eye Treatment ($68, Ulta)
Q: Can you suggest a good anti-aging moisturizer for combination skin? I'm 42 and have dry and oily skin that's prone to breakouts.
AW: Read the label on your moisturizer carefully and make sure it says "oil-free" and "noncomedogenic," which means it won't clog your pores. As long as it meets those two criteria, you shouldn't have a problem with greasy skin or breakouts. While you're at it, check the label for "broad spectrum SPF 30" to protect your skin from sun damage and help prevent wrinkles. And if you'd like additional anti-aging ingredients, peptides are a good option, as they won't increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun. Our Pick: L'Oréal Paris Youth Code SPF 30 Day Lotion ($25, drugstores)
Q: How can I get my fingernails to grow? They split in every direction possible and break with the slightest pressure.
AW: Start by keeping your hands out of water as much as you can — that means wearing gloves when you do the dishes. Water dries out nails, making them more likely to break. You can also try taking biotin, a B vitamin that helps promote healthy nail growth. Take a 5-mg supplement every day, and you should see an improvement in a few months; you'll notice that your nails grow faster and get stronger. If you don't see a change, it's important to make an appointment with your doctor to rule out a medical condition like anemia or hypothyroidism, either of which can cause nail-growth problems.
Q: Is there anything to watch out for when mixing and matching skin-care lotions and potions?
AW: It's usually fine to mix products, but two caveats: First, don't use two products that contain the same active ingredient — for example, a retinol-based serum and a retinol-based night cream; doubling up on an anti-ager that way can often cause irritation. And second, if you layer products from two different companies and a lotion or cream starts to ball up or pill, it just means the formulas aren't compatible and you shouldn't use them together.
