The Best Spring Fashion for the Everyday Man
Calvin Klein Collection
A straight-A student of early-twentieth-century Italian Futurism and late-twentieth-century Bruce Weberism, Italo Zucchelli is putting a forward-looking spin on tailoring (e.g., white blazers made of piqué cotton) and sportswear (bonded-cotton bombers) for spring and summer. Even his less far-out designs, such as this featherweight cotton-and-nylon suit, epitomize the ease that is defining men's style in 2012.
Two-button cotton-nylon-and-resin suit ($1,320) and cotton shirt ($395) by Calvin Klein Collection; steel Aqua Terra Co-Axial chronograph ($7,600) by Omega.
Miuccia Prada has taken to playing with pattern and decoration like never before, scattering colored rhinestones over the yoke of a western-style shirt and plastering golf cartoons across a silk bowling shirt. Psychedelic go-to-hell pants in a floral print and double-breasted tie-print wool jackets (like this one) add to her — and our — sweet summer mood.
Double-breasted wool jacket ($2,280), cotton shirt ($420), and mohair trousers ($570) by Prada.
From the cowboy vibe of his RRL ranchdom all the way to his supersartorial Purple Label line, Ralph Lauren has planted his flag on every inch of the American style spectrum. For spring, he's struck an especially timely note with the not-quite-dressy, not-quite-casual tailoring in his Black Label Denim line. There is a laid-back (but no less luxe) ease to men's style right now, and Lauren epitomizes it in the lived-in quality and sophisticated cut of his blazers and pants.
Two-button cotton jacket ($1,295), cotton shirt ($295), and cotton trousers ($395) by Ralph Lauren Black Label Denim; leather ankle boots ($575) by Ralph Lauren.
...knows what a good fit can do for a man. His latest collection plays with proportions (see the short cut on the double-breasted blazer, the tapered legs of the pants) and shows how even small adjustments to your typical fit can make a big difference. For his runway presentation, he sent out models wearing deep navy and black together, and the combination was pure menace. Try it for yourself.
Double-breasted cotton-and-polyamide jacket ($2,195) and cotton trousers ($725) by Giorgio Armani; suede monk-straps ($1,175) by Santoni.
This season, British designer Kim Jones is making his debut at the helm of Louis Vuitton men's wear under creative director Marc Jacobs, and he's bringing with him an indelible sense of Kim Jonesness to the shorts-and-sneaker looks and the short bomber jackets. Even the sportiest of Jones's pieces are exercises in luxury, and he also plays with themes from Africa (where he grew up), updating colonial bush jackets and accessorizing suits with Masai-blanket print shirts (seen here) and scarves.
Two-button wool jacket ($2,710) and cotton shirt ($1,106) by Louis Vuitton.
Dolce & Gabbana
We all know that Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana can make one great tuxedo and an impressive black evening suit. But for spring, they're boning up on bold patterns (like this plaid blazer) and experimenting with proportions — the shorter jacket they introduced last fall now comes with longer lapels, and they're even venturing into lapel-free jackets and suits.
One-button linen jacket ($1,050), cotton shirt ($275), and silk-and-cotton trousers ($550) by Dolce & Gabbana; leather shoes ($650) by Church's.
Frida Gianinni wants you to think different for spring. For starters, there's her embrace of tapered legs and her resurrection of the band collar: the telltale signs of the well-dressed-up nonconformer. And then there's her take on the unconventional suit, showing an emphasis on black-and-white patterns as well as rich colors, such as this punch-drunk burgundy.
Two-button cotton-and-nylon suit ($2,840) and cotton shirt ($700) by Gucci; suede monk-straps ($660) by Church's; silk pocket square ($85) by Ermenegildo Zegna; cotton socks ($32) by Bresciani.
"Less is more" is Tomas Maier's calling card at Bottega Veneta, and this season, he's combining a minimalist approach to tailoring (lightweight, unstructured) with graphic patterns and subtle colors. Look for a close-fitting two-piece suit that features a bold pattern: The jacket and pants will look great worn together or as separates.
Two-button cotton-and-linen suit ($3,100) and cotton shirt ($390) by Bottega Veneta.